Mary Eberstadt is opining that our sudden cultural abandonment of morals and boundaries in our sexual lives has resulted in an over-obsession with the morality of something more innocuous - food.  Basically arguing for a type of balancing act in human beings, so that when balance is thrown out in one arena, it is compensated for in another area.  Hipsters who wouldn't dream of pointing a judgmental finger at someone based on their sexual practices feel more than justified in passing judgment on people based on their food choices and practices.

Definitely worth mulling over prior to your next meal...but it complicates trying to determine what wine to pair with it.